"I should point out that the reason I was able to push the footage around as much as I did has much to do with Steve Shaw’s excellent Canon 5D gamma curves."įor info on the actual Light Illusion curves see here:
#Cinestyle vs cinema picture style plus
You can get all three, plus a new flatter log curve, for a very reasonable price at the Light Illusion website.)" Curve #2 is better for high contrast situations as it flattens things out a bit. (Light Illusion curve #1 is great for low contrast situations as it adds a bit more “crunch” to the look. "I used one of Steve Shaw’s Light Illusion gamma curves, probably #1. Those work in a pinch, but Steve’s curves really make the camera look its best." I much prefer these curves to any of the looks I get out of the 5D’s built-in curves. "As usual I used Steve Shaw’s Light Illusion gamma curves for the 5D and 7D. But again that's just my own view.Īrt Adams - DoP, LA, USA - is one of the biggest users of Light Illusion's various Gamma Curves, and in the following links talks about a number of recent Canon EOS 5D shot projects: Personally, given the latitude i've seen possible in the grade, I tend to expose the histogram more to the left (under).
I personally try and work as much as possible with the histogram as the LCD can be very misleading and I have often overexposed images. Canon Neutral - Correcting an under or overexposed image softened the image somewhat. Canon Standard - Very contrasty, over saturated colours and a nightmare to grade. The tests I did with a couple of the Canon preset styles left me a bit surprised:
It looks great straight out of the camera and has a pretty good latitude for adjustment. I quite like the Marvel Cinema Picture Style. As M Joel Wauhkonen mentioned, if you're shooting to edit quickly try a non Log Picture Style. Generally I apply a Technicolor LUT in FCP and that works for me, but its time consuming. What I will say is that you need to grade all your Cinestyle footage. It wasn't so great pulling back an overexposed image in my tests. In certain conditions I would even be tempted to deliberately underexpose maybe 2 stops to contain the maximum highlight detail. I was particularly impressed with the Cinestyle when grading back from an underexposed image. It has a few reference stills grabbed from the footage I shot which might not give you a great idea because of the low resolution on the website, but it might be a start.
#Cinestyle vs cinema picture style series
This is purely a personal opinion and is based on a small series of tests. I'll just share some of the conclusions i've made having tested a few Picture styles. No guarantees that it's exactly what you're looking for but it's a start. Hal, I found a custom Picture Style created by Sumit Agarwal which emulates Kodachrome 25. Now if someone were to come up with a picture style that nailed the Kodachrome look, I'd be all over it! I've used the camera's histogram some but my Pentax spotmeter and Spectra IV-A are my buddies. I think in terms of a zone system with six or seven stops of latitude with my 7D. I shot a lot of color reversal years ago and I'm perfectly comfortable working with a camera that requires tight control of lighting contrast and exposure. The Canon Neutral and Faithful styles with HTP off and with minor tweaks to sharpness and saturation please my eye. I personally prefer the approach of getting it in camera. What you see is NOT what you want to get straight out of the camera, but an image more suitable for post-processing. It was designed to improve options for color correction. I haven't used CineStyle myself but have read a lot about it over on cml.
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